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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.